Café Pesto - Hilo, Hawaii
Arriving back in Hilo after a long day climbing mountains (or should I say volcanos), I was hungry, but the question remained, where to eat? Hilo doesn't say up late, at least in my experience, and as soon as I took the exit from Highway 19 onto Kamehameha Avenue, I found my answer.
Located in downtown Hilo's historic S. Hata Building, Café Pesto has a reputation for serving contemporary Italian cuisine with a Pacific Rim twist. It was my first time here, and it was still crowded when I arrived at about 8:00 pm.
(Don't be fooled, this was taken as I was leaving.)
To start, I had the wild greens salad (US$4.95).
On the menu, it said "an eclectic blend of organic baby lettuces, cucumbers and organic vine-ripened tomatoes." When it arrived, it looked like a plate of nothing special. I could have gotten a bag of these organic greens at the Hilo Farmer's Market for half the price! Hey, by the way, where are my tomatoes?
Next, was the pizza luau (9" US$10.95; 12" US$17.95).
Topped with kalua pork, sweet onions and pineapple, this was a twist on the classic "Hawaiian" pizza. Aww come on, you all know what a Hawaiian pizza is, right? A Hawaiian pizza is garnished with ham (or Canadian bacon) and pineapple, and sometimes includes onions and green bell peppers. Here, the smokey-flavored kalua pork perfectly balanced the sweet, but tart flavor of the pineapple and the crust was light, crisp and crunchy.
And finally, the coriander grilled tenderloin and blackened shrimp, garlic goat cheese mashed potatoes, honey buttered Manuka spinach, and Hamakua mushroom jus (US$28.95).
What looked like a great concept on the menu, was actually a mish mash of flavors when eaten. The beef was expertly cooked and the coriander sauce gave a sort of Middle Eastern flair to this part of the dish. The blackened shrimp were just that -- blackened and charred with very little flavor. The honey buttered Manuka spinach was overly sweet while the mashed potatoes and the mushroom jus were just buried under all the other flavors.
On this particular visit to Café Pesto, the service was quite awful. After setting the plates down on the table, my waiter was nowhere to be found. My water glass was not refilled until I received the check and no one stopped by to ask how things were. Given the prices for the food, I'm not really sure if I'll be back. If I do come back, it might be to have a pizza for lunch after picking up some organic salad greens at the nearby Hilo Farmer's Market.
Café Pesto
S Hata Building
308 Kamehameha Avenue
Hilo, Hawaii
Telephone: 808.969.6640
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