Kirin Restaurant
Open for a little more than a year now, Kirin first arrived on the scene as Hei Chin Rou. Since I am a frequent visitor to Ala Moana Center, I was highly anticipating this new restaurant, but each time I visited, I was unable to go inside for one reason or another. This past weekend I was shopping at Ala Moana for a birthday gift when I decided to stop in with a couple of friends.
The interior of the restaurant is well appointed -- dark carved wood panels and recessed lighting. Unlike the interiors of most Chinese restaurants, this one was actually quite pleasant and calming.
What makes this different from most dim sum restaurants in Hawaii is the lack of carts. Instead of carts making their way through the restaurant, your dim sum order is placed via an "order form" of sorts. At each table is a large picture menu and a small sheet of paper with most of the dim sum items listed on it. Check off the box next to each item, hand it to a waiter or waitress that just happens to be passing by, and your dishes will start to arrive in a few minutes.
We ordered a number of dishes and the first of these to arrive was the crispy green onion patty (US$2.95).
Lots of green onions were scattered throughout this crispy and slightly chewy pancake. By the time was placed on the table, the pancake was a little cold and started to turn a little greasy. The pancake itself, while tasty, was just a little too "doughy" for me.
Next came the seared bean curd rolls with vegetables (US$2.95).
Thin sheets of bean curd skin were wrapped around julienned mushrooms, carrots and bamboo shoots. These were fine for what they were, but I would have liked just a little less filling and a lot more crunchiness. These bean curd rolls were just a little too "tender".
The bean curd rolls were quickly followed by the deep-fried shrimp puff with thousand island sauce (US$3.25).
Huge pieces of succulent shrimp filled these deep fried puffs. A dipping sauce consisting of a standard thousand island dressing accompanied this dish. While the dipping sauce was unconventional (these are usually served with mayonaisse), these were quite good. These were not as good as the ultra thin skinned ones found at Legend though.
After we were done with the shrimp puffs, we waited a while before the next dish, the spicy Szechuan pork won-ton (US$2.75), arrived.
Four won-tons were filled with pork and arrived at the table floating in a mildly spicy gravy. After taking the first bite, I discovered that these won-tons were overly salty and decided not to eat anymore. I did taste the gravy and discovered that it contained coconut milk. In fact, it tasted very much like laksa!
Finally, the steamed items started to arrive at the table. First up, were the steamed barbecued pork buns (US$2.95).
Sweet chunks of barbecue pork (char siu) filled the over-steamed bun. The barbecued pork filling had an unusually intense flavor (it seemed to be anise) and the bun lacked the standard fluffiness.
After the disappointment with the char siu bao, I was happy to see the next dish arrive at the table. That dish was the glutinous rice wrapped in lotus leaf with chicken and dried scallop (US$3.75).
Unwrapping the lotus leaf , I discovered this...
Lots of chewy, al dente-style glutinous rice filled with minced chicken and dried scallops. There was a lot of gelatinous fat here as well as something gooey that I couldn't quite make out. The overall flavoring of the rice was good, but I found that it was much too "wet" for my tastes.
The final dim sum item of the day was the Shanghai style juicy pork buns (US$3.25).
Four small buns, if you can call them that, arrived in a steamer basket.
Previously, when I had eaten xiao long bao, the "skin" was paper thin and translucent. When you picked up the bao with your chopsticks, you could see the liquid "sloshing" around inside it. Here the skin was thick, just as thick as a normal won ton skin. When I pierced the skin to take this photo, there was hardly any liquid inside it. There was, however, quite a bit of pork filling inside each tiny "bun".
After a somewhat mediocre experience with the dim sum, I decided that I was going to order something for dessert. I settled on the almond tofu (US$3.25).
Chilled almond flavored tofu was topped with a couple of spoonfuls of fruit cocktail. The sweet, smooth tofu was refreshing and really hit the spot.
Upon entering the restaurant, we thought that the room full of people meant that the food here was good. After the first couple of dishes, we knew that our assumptions were wrong. Did people just come here because it was convenient? The food here was OK, and with each dish, something seemed to be lacking. For a lot less than the premium prices charged here, better values, and tastier food, can be had elsewhere.
Kirin Restaurant
Ala Moana Shopping Center Street Level
1450 Ala Moana Boulevard Space 1215
Telephone: 808.946.1888
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